WORST OF F/W 11.12, MENS.
Alexander McQueen Mens F/W 11.12
The men’s fashion weeks may very well be over but alas, the bad after-taste of the collections that crashed and burned are still fresh on our palates. It is time to do what we do best: tear down hours of labour and grand artistic visions— because some errors in fashion just mustn’t go unnoticed or unpunished.
It hurts to say that the Great and late McQueen is tossing in his grave looking at what is apparently his fall/winter men’s collection. The overblown melodrama of it all— the kinky policeman hat, the inexplicable chunky belts the size of Spanx, and God-forbid the unforeseen revival of Ugly Betty’s cape in denim blue tartan – is not only plain confusing, but certainly doesn’t do justice to McQueen’s gifted ability to play with the most subtle of design nuances. We know that even when the late designer went big, everything was done with a level of control and order, which is utterly absent in this collection. Somebody has to have a good explanation for the random references to Chris Martin’s band major cropped jacket, Rad Hourani’s scraps of leather trimmings and the collars, yes, the collars— namely Burberry’s oversized fleece collars from two seasons ago and those belonging to my neighbour’s dog. (Plus points if you can spot the dog collar on the runway.) Only the powers that be will know for sure what actually decended on this collection but I think Sarah Burton must have put her atelier on ‘shuffle’.
Dries Van Noten Mens F/W 11.12
Coming in second – and I can’t believe I’m saying this – is Dries Van Noten. They have been on such a streak of greatness in the last many collections; this one might just be the one to drop the ball. It is just not as sharp as before in delivering that cult sensibility that usually surrounds its astute tailoring, very clean proportions and the usual bite of eclecticism. This time it is lacking in all of the above mentioned departments. The lacklustre baroque reference did very little to help elevate the collection either. In fact, the whole gold embroidery is getting old and seems too simplistic. But fret not, this is nowhere near the errors of Sarah Burton. It’s more of a disappointment. That said, Dries Van Noten did redeem himself with a stellar womenswear collection this season. Let’s just hope he manages to pick up the slack from there.
Rag & Bone Mens F/W 11.12
The last unfortunate thing that went down in the men’s fashion weeks is not a designer per se but the inability to part with tartans. Seriously, haven’t they been around for quite sometime already? We’ve seen them on coats, kilts, trenches, pants, shirts, we are going into major overdose. Sometimes, it good to note that when Uniqlo has churned out plaid for three seasons back to back (and at a much affordable price mind you), high end labels, the so-called pioneers, should look to other trends to spruce things up. We need something fresher, like high-tech fabrics perhaps. (Yes, ZZegna I’m looking at you). It is so unfair that the girls get to move on to latex and we are still stuck in ‘lumberjacks’. Talk about gender equality.
Well like they say, each season has its hits and misses but these misses are just very hard to miss. Kudos to you if you noticed them while browsing through the collections. If you didn’t, you have no reasons to go back and relive the horrors. Best if you look forward and pray for something awfully beautiful to come next season that will purge us of all this fashion blasphemy. Till then, Amen.
Images via TFS.